Tiles that are cold to the underfoot would no longer be an issue once you install a heating system into your flooring. It may sound complicated but it really is quite simple to install. And it is all done in your bath.
Things that you would need:
• Radiant heat system (this one is electric and is specifically made for flooring in the bath). Choose one that has a thermostat included.
• Chisel
• Sponge. Ensure that it is damp.
• Screwdriver
• Utility knife
• Trowel. Specifically the kind that is notched.
• Glue gun
• Bathroom tile
• Chisel
• Pry bar
• T-square
• Drill
• Grout
• Mesh tape. Specifically the one for fiberglass.
• Hammer
• Adhesive. Specifically choose the thin set one
• Drywall saw
• Screws. Specifically the galvanized kind.
• Backer board (specifically the one for cement)
• Paddle bit
Procedure:
First thing that you would need to do is to uninstall the threshold of your door. Set it aside and proceed in removing your baseboards. Do the same thing with the molding. Get the assistance of your pry bar to carefully pry your baseboards loose. Follow it up with your hammer. Then, work on getting the door of your bath dismantled from the connecting hinges. Do not hurry in taking off the commode.
Next thing to do is to get your t square. Use that to your backer board to have it marked. Then cut with your circular saw according to your intended measurements.
Figure A
Now, flip the backer boards so that the back is facing you. Apply adhesive on each of them (figure A). Once your done, position the to the vinyl floor you currently have. Then tread carefully on top of the boards so that they will set. Get your galvanized screws and have them secured, an 8’ gap on each screw.
Figure B
Bear into mind that installing the backer board as well as the tile over the current floor would elevate the floor. The jambs of your doors would have to be realigned. The same goes to the door’s bottom part. Use the tile to predict your floors’ new height. Use a saw in cutting your jamb (figure B).
Figure C
Now, apply adhesive to every seam that you see among the backer boards (figure C). Use a notched trowel in doing this. Apply mesh tape to your newly applied adhesive. Repeat process creating a 2nd layer. Then just leave it and wait for it to dry.
Prior to setting up your heat mats, get an ohm meter and see to it that the resistance passes the qualifications put in by the factory. Make sure that the floor is free of any debris to prepare you for your layout.
Figure D
Now from your toilet, as well as from the tub and have 6” measured off that. Do the same with the edges on your wall. Mark each of them. Now position your mats and have them set in place by applying your tape (figure D). You may follow it up with a stapler to the part where you find an orange weave just to make sure it is firmly in place.
Now get your ohm meter again and check the resistance just in case your mats were ruined while being installed. Ensure that no mat overlaps another. Also make sure that your mats are carefully laid out in such a way where “cold” lead will have no trouble returning to its thermostat.
Figure E
Get your utility knife and use that to your backer board, making sure you score it properly to address the wiring. Then, create a bed for the wiring by using your chisel on the board to put in a groove. Then screw in your sensor conduit. After that, install cold lead onto the newly created groove that you have cut in (figure E). Do the same with the connection wires. Apply hot glue to secure wires. Then leave it to dry.
Now setup your thermostat box so that it will be placed 60’ above your floor. It is recommended that it be placed close to your light switch (figure F). However, if you would rather not do it yourself, ask for the services of an electrician. Get your drywall saw and use that to do away with the space where you will be putting your thermostat.
Figure G
After that, create a hole in the base of your wall. Get your drill and use that to cut in 2 holes, with the assistance of a paddle bit as well, on your plate’s base (figure G). The first hole will be used for your leads while the other will be intended for you sensor which will convey your wiring to go to your thermostat. Have a string inserted into one hole and connect your wires. After that, take back your string to go to the hole intended for your thermostat.
Figure H
Now do the same with the conduit, pulling it similarly upwards. Take off its cap then put the wire that is for the sensor unto the conduits’ tip (figure H). Run cold lead unto the box that would be for the thermostat. Mount the box unto your wall. Then have cold leads connected to your thermostats control contacts. Once you are done with the wiring, screw it into place (figure I).
Figure J
Now you are prepared to install the tiles. Make sure that you there is no longer any debris in site. Do a dry fit until you establish a pattern that you like and gauge how you will go about it.
Start at the corner of your room, specifically the right side. Apply adhesive to your backer board. Do the same with your heating mats. Maintain an inclination of 45 degrees when spreading the adhesive. Put in one tile first while twisting it a bit to fit correctly. Deploy spacers for evenness. Remove excess adhesive that comes out from the tile. Fill the whole floor (figure K).
It is now time to grout. Get your grout float and use that to evenly apply grout on the area you are covering (figure L). Remove any excess grout. Wait for around 20 minutes to allow grout to set. Then wipe the tile with a damp sponge. Wait for it to dry. Look for a cloth that is dry and use that to buff your tiles.
Figure M
The image above is the completed project. It was complete on 3 days. Total estimated cost amounted to $1,000 more or less.
